Lots of things in the way:
SO I removed some things:
Lo and behold, the secret upper bolt became available:
I had to "convince" it to loosen, but, well, that's why God invented hammers
I have still not put all back together, as I ran out of daylight, but the new starter is in, the air filter is back in, the oil filter back on (had to remove it to get the dang starter out of the engine compartment) and all that remains is to put battery back and the little splash guards underneath.
Anybody want a real decent 99 corolla? It has a whole new front end and a new starter!